Gritty, urban-feeling Dover, England seems bigger than its population of 30,000. The town lies between two cliffs in a little valley carved out by its stream, the River Dour. The city center is anchored by Market Square and the mostly pedestrianized (but not particularly charming) main shopping drag. From here, an underpass leads to the beach and promenade with views of the port and the White Cliffs. The White Cliffs of Dover have served as a natural defense since the time of Roman Britannia, 2,